I unpacked it and I was both pleasantly surprised and a little shocked!
The first thing that struck me, and was the main shock, was the lining.
The sleeves are lined with and equally heavy quilted material, making the entire jacket very warm to wear.
I’m in two minds to keep the jacket as found, or to re-line it with a thinner cloth to make it more of an all year round jacket, lighter in weight and looser on the fit.
I had a good look at the pockets and to my surprise I found that in one was the missing button! Not only that, sewn in to the bottom hem is a spare for the front and the cuffs/pockets!
The buttonhole on the lapel is cut, and practical as it connects with a small plain button concealed under the collar, making it a very snug and warm fit.
From what I can make out the construction of the pockets are exactly the same as Tom’s, though they lack a line of binding around the top edge.
They have an inverted box pleat down the centre front of each, which is sealed for the top 2 inches. This is where the button is sewn to hold the flap down.
This back panel is missing the two deep pleats that are visible on Tom’s version. On his they disappear into a laid-in belted back, below which there is a conventional flat back becoming a plain hem at the bottom.
Studying this jacket, especially how the pockets are made, will be invaluable if I ever decided create a pattern for it.
I’d be able to incorporate the changes needed to make it more screen accurate for myself or got a commission for one.